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Leopard Gecko Winter Care: Keep Your Gecko Warm and Healthy
Your leopard gecko needs the same warm temperatures in winter that they enjoy year-round. Keep the warm side at 88-92°F and the cool side at 70-75°F even during cold months. The main challenge is maintaining these temps when your house gets chilly.
Winter doesn’t mean your gecko needs to hibernate. While some geckos naturally slow down and eat less, you still need to provide proper heating to keep them healthy and safe.
In this guide, you’ll learn exactly how to keep your gecko warm during winter, what changes to expect in their behavior, and when you should actually worry versus when it’s totally normal seasonal stuff.
Quick Winter Care Essentials
- Keep warm side at 88-92°F year-round (no temperature drops)
- Use ceramic heat emitters for nighttime warmth if your house is cold
- Night temps can safely drop to 65°F but no lower
- Expect less appetite in winter (this is normal)
- Monitor temperatures with digital thermometers, not those stick-on strips
- Never turn off heat completely during winter
- Don’t use colored night bulbs (they disrupt sleep)
Understanding Winter Behavior Changes
Your gecko might act totally different in winter, and that’s okay.
Many leopard geckos naturally slow down when the days get shorter. They’ll sleep more, eat less, and generally act like tiny lazy potatoes.
This is called brumation, and it’s basically the reptile version of hibernation. But here’s the thing: in captivity, brumation is optional, not required.
What Normal Winter Slowdown Looks Like
Your gecko might start sleeping way more than usual. You’ll notice they’re hanging out in their hide most of the day instead of prowling around.
Their appetite often drops. A gecko that normally devours 5 crickets might suddenly only want 2 or 3, or skip meals altogether for weeks.
They’ll spend more time on the cool side of the tank. This seems backward, but it’s how they naturally respond to shorter daylight hours.
Some geckos barely change at all. If yours keeps eating and acting normal through winter, that’s also perfectly fine.
When to Actually Worry
If your gecko is losing significant weight, that’s a problem. A healthy gecko stores fat in their tail, which should stay plump even during slow periods.
Extreme lethargy combined with cold temps means your heating setup isn’t working. Your gecko should still move around sometimes, even if less active.
Temperatures below 60°F at night are dangerous. At these temps, digestion stops completely and your gecko can get seriously sick.
If your gecko hasn’t eaten in over a month AND is losing weight, get to a vet. Some appetite loss is normal, but dramatic weight loss isn’t.
Temperature Requirements (Yes, Even in Winter)
The golden rule: don’t drop temperatures just because it’s winter.
Your warm side should stay at 88-92°F all year long. This is where your gecko digests food and stays healthy.
The cool side can be 70-75°F during the day. At night, it’s fine if this drops to 65°F, but definitely not lower.
Why Constant Warmth Matters
Leopard geckos can’t regulate their own body temperature. They rely 100% on their environment to stay warm enough to digest food.
If temps drop too low, food literally rots in their stomach instead of digesting. This can kill them.
Even if your gecko isn’t eating much in winter, they still need proper temps to stay healthy and metabolize stored fat.
Measuring Temps Correctly
Get a temperature gun or digital thermometer with a probe. Those stick-on strips from pet stores are wildly inaccurate.
Measure surface temps where your gecko actually sits, not air temps. Place the probe right on the substrate under the warm hide.
Check temps multiple times throughout the day. Your house temperature fluctuates more than you think, especially overnight.
Use at least two thermometers: one for the warm side and one for the cool side. This helps you maintain a proper temperature gradient.
Winter Heating Solutions
If your house gets cold in winter, you’ll need to add extra heat sources.
An under-tank heater (UTH) alone might not cut it when your room drops to 60°F at night.
Ceramic Heat Emitters Are Your Best Friend
Ceramic heat emitters (CHEs) are perfect for winter. They produce heat without light, so they won’t mess up your gecko’s day/night cycle.
You can leave them on 24/7 safely. Unlike colored night bulbs, they won’t stress your gecko or disrupt their sleep.
Mount them in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket. Regular plastic sockets can melt from the heat.
Always use a thermostat with CHEs. They can get way too hot without temperature control, especially in smaller tanks.
Insulating Your Tank
Put towels or blankets around the outside of the tank (not blocking ventilation). This helps trap heat inside during cold nights.
Move the tank away from windows and exterior walls. These spots get way colder than the rest of the room.
Wooden enclosures hold heat better than glass. If you’re in a really cold area, consider upgrading from a glass tank.
Never seal the mesh top completely. Your gecko needs airflow to prevent respiratory issues.
Dealing with Really Cold Houses
Some people keep their homes at 55-60°F in winter to save money. If that’s you, you’ll need serious heating.
Use a combination: UTH for the warm side plus a CHE for ambient air temperature. One heat source usually isn’t enough.
Consider a small space heater in the room (not right next to the tank). This raises the baseline temperature so your reptile heater doesn’t work so hard.
Monitor your electricity bill. Keeping reptiles warm in a freezing house gets expensive, but it’s non-negotiable for their health.
Feeding During Winter Months
Your gecko will probably eat less. This is normal and not something you need to fix.
Adults who normally eat every 2-3 days might only want food once a week. That’s totally fine as long as their tail stays plump.
Juveniles should still get daily food offers, even if they refuse some meals. They’re still growing and need consistent nutrition.
How Much Less Is Normal
A 30-50% reduction in appetite is typical. If your gecko normally eats 5 crickets, they might only want 2-3 in winter.
Some geckos stop eating entirely for weeks or even months. As long as they’re not losing weight, don’t panic.
The key indicator is tail thickness. If the tail is still fat, your gecko is fine even if they’re barely eating.
When to Keep Offering Food
Offer food on your normal schedule even if they refuse it. Your gecko might surprise you and eat one day.
Don’t leave live insects in the tank overnight. Crickets can bite sleeping geckos, especially when they’re in slower winter mode.
Try different feeders. Sometimes a gecko bored of mealworms will get excited about waxworms or dubias.
Keep dusting with calcium and vitamins when they do eat. They need those nutrients even more when eating less frequently.
When to Stop Offering Food
If you’re trying to induce brumation intentionally (for breeding), stop feeding 2 weeks before cooling temps. This clears their digestive system.
If your gecko consistently refuses food and gets agitated when you offer it, back off. Stressed geckos need peace.
Never force-feed unless directed by a vet. This causes massive stress and can injure your gecko.
What NOT to Do in Winter
Don’t drop temperatures thinking you’re helping your gecko brumate naturally. In captivity, you maintain temps unless you’re intentionally brumating for breeding.
This is huge: maintain the same warm temps year-round unless you’re an experienced keeper doing controlled brumation.
Common Winter Mistakes
Never use colored night bulbs. The red, blue, or purple ones stress geckos out even though pet stores sell them for reptiles.
Don’t turn off all heat at night “because it’s natural.” Your house is way colder than their native habitat.
Stop panic-feeding. If your gecko refuses food, don’t keep shoving insects at them or they’ll get stressed.
Don’t assume slow behavior means they’re sick. Winter lethargy is normal – weight loss and cold temps are the real red flags.
Dangerous Temperature Situations
Anything below 60°F is dangerous. At these temps, your gecko’s body basically shuts down.
If your tank ever drops to 50°F or below, your gecko could die within days. This is an emergency.
Don’t rely on “my house feels warm enough.” Use actual thermometers because human comfort and gecko needs are different.
Space heaters pointed directly at tanks can overheat one side. Use them for room temperature, not as a heat source.
Brumation: Do You Need to Do It?
Short answer: no, unless you’re breeding.
Most pet leopard geckos live happy, healthy lives without ever brumating. It’s optional, not required.
When Geckos Naturally Brumate
Some geckos just decide to brumate on their own. Shorter days and cooler room temps trigger their instincts even in captivity.
Signs include sleeping more, refusing food, and hanging out on the cool side constantly. This usually happens between November and February.
If your gecko is over 1 year old and shows these signs while maintaining a healthy weight, they might be naturally brumating.
Don’t try to force them awake by raising temps. Just maintain proper heating and let them do their thing.
Controlled Brumation for Breeding
Only experienced keepers should intentionally brumate geckos. It’s risky if done wrong.
Stop feeding 2 weeks before you start cooling temps. This prevents undigested food from rotting in their gut.
Gradually lower temps to 60-72°F over several weeks. Never drop temperatures suddenly.
Keep fresh water available the whole time. Geckos wake up occasionally to drink.
Monitor weight weekly. More than 10% weight loss means stop immediately and consult a vet.
When to See a Vet
Winter brings unique health risks you need to watch for.
If your gecko hasn’t pooped in over a month and temperatures have been low, they might be impacted. This is life-threatening.
Emergency Warning Signs
Temperatures below 60°F in the tank combined with lethargy means get help NOW. Your gecko could be hypothermic.
Dramatic weight loss (tail getting skinny) within a few weeks isn’t normal winter slowdown. Something’s wrong.
Not moving at all even when you gently touch them could mean they’re too cold to function. Warm them gradually and call a vet.
Stuck shed during winter is common but needs attention. The dry indoor heat can cause shedding problems.
Non-Emergency But Still Concerning
Refusing food for 2+ months with visible weight loss needs a vet check. Some appetite loss is fine, but not with weight dropping.
Spending ALL time on the cool side might mean the warm side is too hot or they’re trying to brumate.
Lethargy plus cold temps that won’t come up means your heating setup failed. Fix the heat first, then assess if they need a vet.
Respiratory issues (wheezing, mouth breathing) happen more in winter with temp fluctuations. Don’t wait on these symptoms.
Maintaining Proper Lighting
Lighting changes matter even though heat is more critical.
In summer, give your gecko 14 hours of light. In winter, drop to 12 hours to mimic natural seasonal changes.
This helps regulate their internal clock and can reduce stress during the shorter days.
Why Day/Night Cycles Matter
Even though leopard geckos are most active at dawn and dusk, they still need clear day/night signals.
Light exposure affects their appetite, breeding cycles, and overall mental health. Complete darkness 24/7 isn’t natural.
Use a timer to keep lighting consistent. Manual switching means you’ll forget and mess up their schedule.
Regular white light works fine. You don’t need special expensive bulbs for day/night cycles.
UVB Lighting in Winter
UVB is optional but beneficial for leopard geckos. If you use it, keep the same schedule year-round.
Don’t increase UVB to “make up for” less eating. That’s not how it works.
Change UVB bulbs every 6-12 months. They stop producing UV rays even when they still look bright.
Albino geckos are sensitive to UVB. Use lower strength bulbs and give them plenty of shade options.
Humidity and Shedding in Winter
Indoor heating makes the air super dry, which causes shedding problems.
Your gecko’s humid hide becomes even more important in winter. Keep it moist with damp sphagnum moss.
Check the hide daily. Indoor heat dries it out faster than you think.
Dealing with Stuck Shed
Stuck shed on toes and tail is common in winter. The dry air makes it harder for geckos to shed cleanly.
If you see stuck shed, give your gecko a 15-20 minute soak in shallow lukewarm water. Never use hot water.
Gently try to remove stuck shed with a damp Q-tip. Don’t pull hard or you’ll hurt them.
Multiple layers of stuck shed can cut off circulation to toes. This can cause them to lose toes if not fixed.
Maintaining Proper Humidity
Overall tank humidity should stay around 30-40%. Too high causes respiratory issues, too low causes shed problems.
The humid hide should be the only super moist spot. Don’t mist the entire tank trying to raise humidity.
Use a hygrometer to measure humidity, not just guessing. Digital ones are cheap and accurate.
If your whole house is bone dry, a small room humidifier helps. Just don’t put it right next to the tank.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I turn off the heat at night to save electricity?
No. Your gecko needs consistent warmth 24/7. Night temps can drop to 65°F safely, but turning heat off completely is dangerous. If your house gets colder than 65°F at night, you need nighttime heating with a CHE.
My gecko hasn’t eaten in 3 weeks. Is this normal?
If their tail is still plump and they’re active otherwise, yes. Many geckos eat way less or stop completely in winter. Monitor their weight weekly. If the tail gets skinny or they lose 10%+ body weight, see a vet.
Should I force my gecko to eat during winter?
Never force-feed unless a vet tells you to. Keep offering food on schedule, but if they refuse, just remove it. Forcing causes stress and can injure them. As long as weight stays stable, they’re fine.
What’s the minimum safe temperature for leopard geckos?
Night temps shouldn’t drop below 65°F. Anything under 60°F is dangerous. Below 50°F can be fatal within days. Always maintain the warm side at 88-92°F regardless of what the cool side does.
Is brumation required for pet leopard geckos?
No. Brumation is only necessary if you’re breeding. Pet geckos can live their whole lives at stable temps and be perfectly healthy. Some brumate naturally, which is fine, but you don’t need to induce it.
Wrapping Up Winter Care
The biggest takeaway: maintain proper temperatures no matter how cold it gets outside.
Your gecko doesn’t know it’s winter from a calendar. They know from temperature and light changes, so you control their environment.
Some appetite loss and extra sleeping is normal. Weight loss and cold temps are the real warning signs to watch for.
Invest in good thermometers and heating equipment. Your gecko’s life literally depends on staying warm enough to function.
About Author
Hello, I’m Muntaseer Rahman, the owner of AcuarioPets.com. I’m passionate about aquarium pets like shrimps, snails, crabs, and crayfish. I’ve created this website to share my expertise and help you provide better care for these amazing pets.
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