What’s the Right Temperature for a Happy Leopard Gecko?

Keeping a leopard gecko isn’t just about feeding bugs and snapping cute photos. If the tank temperature is off, things go downhill fast.

Too cold? Your gecko stops eating, gets sluggish, and risks impaction. Too hot? It gets stressed, dehydrated, or worse.

So, what’s the right temperature range that keeps your gecko active, comfy, and healthy? Let’s break it down without the fluff.

Why Temperature Matters More Than You Think

Leopard geckos don’t regulate their body temperature like we do. They rely fully on the heat in their environment to stay alive.

If it gets too cold, their digestion slows down. Food just sits in their belly and can rot, leading to impaction or even death. They’ll also stop moving much and may refuse to eat.

If it’s too hot, they overheat fast. You might see them trying to escape the tank, digging like crazy, or looking totally exhausted. In some cases, it can lead to dehydration or organ failure.

Bottom line: the wrong temperature doesn’t just make them uncomfortable—it messes with their whole system. You’re not just setting a thermostat, you’re keeping them alive.

Ideal Temperature Ranges For Leopard Gecko (With a Simple Breakdown)

Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient in their tank. That means one side should be warm, the other cooler, so they can move between spots based on how they feel.

Here’s the sweet spot:

• Warm side (belly heat area): 88–92°F
• Cool side: 70–77°F
• Basking spot (surface temp): 94–97°F
• Nighttime temp: Can drop to 65–70°F, but don’t go below 60°F

Use a digital thermometer with a probe on both sides to make sure it’s accurate. And always measure surface temps, not just air temps. That’s what your gecko feels.

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Tools You’ll Need to Control Temperature

You don’t need a fancy setup, but you do need the right basics to keep your gecko safe.

• Heat Mat: Goes under the warm side. Gives belly heat, which helps with digestion.
• Thermostat: Controls the heat mat. Without this, things can get too hot and burn your gecko.
• Digital Thermometers (with probes): One for the warm side, one for the cool side. Don’t trust those cheap stick-on ones.
• Heat Lamp (optional): Good for raising air temps during the day. Place it over the warm side, never too close.
• Ceramic Heat Emitter (optional): Heats the tank without light. Perfect for nighttime warmth without messing up sleep.

Skip colored lights or anything labeled “night glow.” Geckos don’t need light at night—just heat if it gets too cold.

UVB: Useful or Just Hype?

Leopard geckos don’t need UVB to survive, but it can help—if used right.

In the wild, they get some sun exposure during dawn and dusk. So, low-level UVB (like 2–5%) can support vitamin D3 production and calcium absorption. That helps prevent metabolic bone disease.

But here’s the catch:

If your gecko is already getting D3 from supplements, UVB isn’t a must. And using strong UVB bulbs can actually harm their eyes and skin.

So unless you know what you’re doing, it’s safer to stick with D3 supplements and skip UVB altogether. If you do use it, go for low output UVB and make sure there’s plenty of shade in the tank.

Common Heating Mistakes That Can Hurt Your Gecko

Most gecko problems start with heat setup mistakes. Here are the ones I see all the time:

• No thermostat on the heat mat: This can cook your gecko. Always use a thermostat to control the heat.
• Using bright lights at night: Light at night messes up their sleep. If it glows, don’t use it after dark.
• Relying only on air temperature: Surface temp is what matters. Always check the floor of the warm side.
• Tank near a window or vent: Sunlight or drafts can swing temps fast. Pick a steady spot away from those.
• Only using one thermometer: You need to check both warm and cool sides, not just one area.

Fixing these is easy. Ignoring them? That’s what gets geckos sick.

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How to Tell If Your Gecko Is Too Hot or Too Cold

Too hot? Your gecko will try to escape the heat. You might see it glass surfing, hiding in the cool end all day, or looking weak and stressed. In bad cases, the eyes look sunken and it stops eating.

Too cold? It gets slow and lazy. It might stay in one spot, eat less (or not at all), and skip the bathroom. Some even sleep too much or stop moving unless touched.

When in doubt, check your thermostat and thermometer. Most gecko issues are just heat issues hiding in plain sight.

Final Tips for a Comfy Tank Setup

• Place a hide on both sides—one in the warm zone, one in the cool. Your gecko will move between them as needed.
• Use a basking rock or tile on the warm side. It helps hold heat and supports proper digestion.
• Keep lights on a timer—about 12 hours on, 12 off. This helps mimic a natural day-night cycle.
• Skip night lights. If it’s too cold, use a ceramic heat emitter instead of anything that glows.
• Check temps daily. Things can shift fast with weather, room changes, or broken gear.

A stable tank = a stress-free gecko. And that means fewer problems down the road.