Leopard Gecko Owner Essentials: Complete Care & Shopping Guide

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Everything you need to keep your leopard gecko healthy, happy, and thriving. I’ve researched and vetted each product on this list to ensure they meet the specific needs of leopard geckos at every life stage.

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Enclosures & Tanks

My Top Pick: 20-Gallon Long Tank (for single adult)

A standard 20-gallon long tank (30″ x 12″ x 12″) is perfect for a single adult leopard gecko. The long, shallow design provides excellent floor space while maintaining proper temperatures.

Why 20-gallon long works best:

  • Perfect floor space for terrestrial geckos
  • Easy to heat with under-tank heater
  • Maintains temperature gradient well
  • Affordable and widely available
  • Screen top for proper ventilation

Minimum Size Requirements:

  • Baby leopard geckos (0-6 months): 10-gallon tank
  • Juvenile leopard geckos (6-12 months): 15-20 gallon tank
  • Adult leopard geckos (12+ months): 20-gallon minimum (30-40 gallons for multiple geckos)

Premium Option: 40-Gallon Breeder Tank

If you want to give your gecko more space or plan to keep multiple females together, a 40-gallon breeder (36″ x 18″ x 16″) is ideal. More floor space = more enrichment opportunities.

Important Note: Leopard geckos are terrestrial (ground-dwelling), not arboreal. They need FLOOR SPACE, not height. A 20-gallon tall tank is NOT suitable—always choose long/breeder tanks.

DIY Option Considerations:

You can build a custom enclosure using melamine or PVC boards. Just ensure:

  • Proper ventilation (screen top or vents)
  • No toxic materials or finishes
  • Secure doors that lock
  • Adequate space for temperature gradient

Heating & Lighting

Leopard geckos are nocturnal desert reptiles that require specific heating to stay healthy. Unlike bearded dragons, they get their heat from BELOW (belly heat), not from above.

Under Tank Heater (UTH) – PRIMARY HEAT SOURCE

My Top Pick: Heat Mat with Thermostat

An under-tank heat mat is ESSENTIAL for leopard geckos. They need belly heat to digest food properly. Without it, they become impacted and die.

Why UTH is critical:

  • Provides belly heat for proper digestion
  • Mimics warm desert rocks they naturally bask on
  • Allows them to thermoregulate (move on/off heat)
  • Essential for metabolic function

CRITICAL: You MUST use a thermostat with heat mats!

Heat mats without thermostats can reach 120°F+ and burn your gecko. A thermostat regulates the temperature and prevents burns.

Heat Mat Temperature Requirements:

  • Hot spot surface temp: 88-92°F
  • Warm side ambient: 80-85°F
  • Cool side ambient: 70-75°F
  • Nighttime: 65-75°F (no additional heat needed in most homes)

How to Install Heat Mat:

  1. Place heat mat UNDER the tank on one end (covers 1/3 of tank bottom)
  2. Place tank on top (with small risers/feet for airflow)
  3. Connect heat mat to thermostat
  4. Place thermostat probe INSIDE tank on substrate above heat mat
  5. Set thermostat to 90°F
  6. Verify surface temp with temperature gun

Overhead Heating (Optional Secondary Heat)

Low-Wattage Heat Bulb (Optional)

Some keepers add a low-wattage basking bulb (25-50W) for daytime ambient warmth. This is OPTIONAL—not required like it is for bearded dragons.

When to use overhead heat:

  • Room temperature is below 75°F
  • You want to boost ambient temps during the day
  • Creating a more natural day/night cycle

What NOT to Use:

  • Red/blue/purple “night” bulbs (disrupt their natural photoperiod)
  • Heat rocks (cause burns—leopard geckos can’t feel heat on their belly properly)
  • Colored bulbs (mess with day/night cycle)
  • High-wattage basking bulbs (too hot—they’re nocturnal!)

UVB Lighting (Debated – Optional)

The UVB Debate for Leopard Geckos:

Unlike bearded dragons, leopard geckos do NOT require UVB lighting to survive. They’re crepuscular/nocturnal and can synthesize vitamin D3 from dietary sources.

However: Recent research suggests low-level UVB may provide health benefits:

  • Natural vitamin D3 synthesis
  • Improved activity levels
  • Better appetite
  • Enhanced coloration

If you choose to provide UVB (optional):

  • Use LOW output: 2.0-5.0 UVB (NOT 10.0—too strong for nocturnal species)
  • T5 HO or T8 tube bulb
  • Mounted inside tank or within 6 inches if over screen
  • 12-14 hours per day on timer
  • Replace every 6-12 months

Bottom line on UVB:

  • Required? No. Leopard geckos survive fine without it if properly supplemented.
  • Beneficial? Possibly. Some keepers report improvements with low-level UVB.
  • My recommendation: Optional. If your gecko is healthy on supplements alone, not necessary. If you want to provide it, use low output only.

Day/Night Cycle (Important!)

Leopard geckos need a proper photoperiod (light/dark cycle):

  • Day: 12-14 hours of ambient room light (or low-wattage bulb)
  • Night: Complete darkness

Use a timer! Consistent light cycles regulate their circadian rhythm and breeding behavior.

They do NOT need light at night. They’re nocturnal—darkness is when they’re active.

Thermometers & Hygrometers

You can’t guess temperatures—you need to measure them accurately. This is especially critical with heat mats, which can burn your gecko if too hot.

My Top Pick: Infrared Temperature Gun

A temp gun lets you measure surface temperatures instantly. ESSENTIAL for checking your heat mat temp.

Why you need a temp gun:

  • Measures exact hot spot surface temperature
  • Check heat mat temps through substrate
  • Verify cool side temps
  • Instant readings
  • Prevents burns

For Ambient Temps: Digital Thermometer with Probe

Place probes on both warm and cool sides to monitor ambient air temperatures.

Temperature Requirements:

Your tank needs a temperature gradient:

  • Hot spot (surface temp on heat mat): 88-92°F
  • Warm side ambient: 80-85°F
  • Cool side ambient: 70-75°F
  • Nighttime: 65-75°F (room temperature is usually fine)

Humidity Monitoring:

Leopard geckos need LOW humidity (30-40%) in most of the tank, but a humid hide with 70-80% humidity for shedding.

Get a simple digital hygrometer to monitor general tank humidity.

What NOT to Use:

  • Stick-on dial thermometers (wildly inaccurate)
  • Guessing temps (leads to burns or improper digestion)

Substrate & Flooring

This is a heavily debated topic in leopard gecko care. Here’s what actually works safely.

My Top Pick: Tile or Slate

Ceramic tile or slate is the SAFEST substrate for leopard geckos. It’s what I use and recommend for all my geckos.

Why tile is best:

  • Zero impaction risk
  • Easy to clean and disinfect
  • Retains heat from UTH well
  • Natural nail filing
  • Looks professional
  • Lasts forever
  • No risk of ingestion during feeding

How to use tile:

  • Measure your tank dimensions
  • Buy unglazed ceramic tile or slate from hardware store (cheap!)
  • Cut to fit (or have store cut it)
  • No adhesive needed—just place it in the tank
  • Wipe down weekly with reptile-safe cleaner

Budget Option: Paper Towels

Paper towels are safe, easy to replace, and let you monitor poop easily. Great for babies or quarantine setups.

Pros:

  • 100% safe (no impaction)
  • Cheap and easy to replace
  • Easy poop monitoring

Cons:

  • Not aesthetically pleasing
  • Needs frequent changing

Alternative Option: Reptile Carpet

Reptile carpet is reusable and safe, but requires frequent washing and can harbor bacteria if not cleaned properly.

AVOID THESE SUBSTRATES:

  • ❌ Sand (causes impaction—the #1 killer of leopard geckos)
  • ❌ Calci-sand (marketed as safe but still causes impaction and death)
  • ❌ Wood chips/shavings (splinters, impaction, mites)
  • ❌ Walnut shell (sharp, causes impaction)
  • ❌ Any loose substrates (ALL carry impaction risk)

The Sand Myth:

“But wild leopard geckos live on sand!”

FALSE. Wild leopard geckos live on hard-packed clay, rock, and packed earth—NOT loose sand. Pet stores sell sand because it looks nice, not because it’s safe.

Impaction kills. It’s slow, painful, and preventable. Use tile or paper towels.

Advanced Option: Excavator Clay or Stone Slurry (For Experienced Keepers)

Some advanced keepers use excavator clay or create a stone slurry that hardens into a naturalistic surface. This is safe once hardened but requires experience to do correctly.

Not recommended for beginners. Stick with tile.

Food & Nutrition

Leopard geckos are 100% insectivores—they eat ONLY live insects. No vegetables, no fruit, just bugs.

Live Feeders (Primary Diet)

Staple Insects (Feed Regularly):

Mealworms – Best Staple Feeder

Mealworms are the most common staple for leopard geckos. Easy to keep, long-lived, and readily accepted.

Pros:

  • Easy to store (live for weeks)
  • Don’t smell
  • Can’t escape easily
  • Good nutritional value when gut-loaded

Cons:

  • High in chitin (harder to digest in large quantities)
  • Can become boring if only feeder offered

Dubia Roaches – Premium Staple

Dubia roaches are the gold standard for nutrition. Higher protein, better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, and easier to digest than mealworms.

Pros:

  • Excellent nutritional profile
  • Don’t smell
  • Can’t climb smooth surfaces
  • Live for months
  • Easy to digest

Cons:

  • More expensive
  • Some geckos are picky and won’t eat them initially

Crickets – Common Staple

Crickets are widely available and provide good variety, but they’re messy and die quickly.

Pros:

  • Cheap and available everywhere
  • Geckos love hunting them
  • Good variety

Cons:

  • Smell terrible
  • Die quickly
  • Noisy (chirping)
  • Can bite your gecko if left in tank

Supplemental Feeders (Variety/Treats):

NEVER Feed:

  • Wild-caught insects (pesticide risk)
  • Lightning bugs/fireflies (deadly toxic)
  • Insects from bait shops (parasites)
  • Dead insects (leopard geckos usually won’t eat them)
  • Vegetables or fruit (they can’t digest plant matter)

Feeding Schedule

Babies (0-6 months):

  • Feed daily
  • As many insects as they’ll eat in 15 minutes
  • Usually 5-10 small insects per feeding
  • Dust with calcium + D3 daily

Juveniles (6-12 months):

  • Feed every other day
  • 6-10 appropriately-sized insects
  • Dust with calcium + D3 at every feeding

Adults (12+ months):

  • Feed every 2-3 days
  • 5-10 insects per feeding (depending on size)
  • Dust with calcium + D3 at every feeding
  • Add multivitamin 1-2x per week

Insect Size Rule: Insects should be no larger than the space between your gecko’s eyes.

Gut-Loading Insects

What is gut-loading?

Feeding nutritious food to your insects 24-48 hours before feeding them to your gecko. The nutrition passes through to your pet.

Good gut-load foods:

  • Carrots
  • Sweet potato
  • Squash
  • Leafy greens (for the insects, not the gecko!)
  • Commercial gut-load powder

Supplements & Vitamins

Leopard geckos REQUIRE calcium supplementation. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease (MBD) and die.

Calcium with D3 (PRIMARY SUPPLEMENT)

My Pick: Calcium Powder with D3

Unlike bearded dragons, leopard geckos need calcium WITH D3 at every feeding (if not using UVB). They’re nocturnal and don’t produce D3 naturally from UVB exposure like diurnal species.

Why calcium + D3 is critical:

  • Prevents metabolic bone disease (MBD)
  • Essential for bone growth
  • Critical for breeding females
  • D3 helps absorb calcium

Multivitamin

My Pick: Reptile Multivitamin

Use a reptile multivitamin 1-2 times per week for all ages. Provides vitamin A, E, and other essential nutrients.

Complete Supplementation Schedule:

For Babies & Juveniles:

  • Calcium with D3: Every feeding (daily)
  • Multivitamin: 2 times per week

For Adults:

  • Calcium with D3: Every feeding (every 2-3 days)
  • Multivitamin: 1-2 times per week

How to Dust Insects:

  1. Put insects in a plastic bag or container
  2. Add a pinch of supplement powder
  3. Shake gently to coat (they should look “ghost-like”)
  4. Feed immediately

Important Notes:

  • If you’re providing UVB lighting, you can alternate between calcium with D3 and calcium without D3
  • Never skip calcium supplementation—MBD is irreversible and fatal
  • Breeding females need extra calcium

Hides & Enrichment

Leopard geckos are shy, nocturnal creatures that NEED multiple hides to feel secure. This is non-negotiable.

The Three-Hide Rule

Every leopard gecko enclosure needs AT LEAST three hides:

  1. Warm hide (on hot side)
  2. Cool hide (on cool side)
  3. Humid hide (on warm or cool side)

Why three hides?

Leopard geckos need to thermoregulate (move between hot and cool areas) while feeling secure. If they only have one hide on the cool side, they’ll stay cool even when they need heat—leading to poor digestion and illness.

Warm Hide

My Pick: Rock Cave or Half Log

Place this hide directly over your heat mat on the warm side. Your gecko will use this for digesting food.

What makes a good hide:

  • Enclosed on 3 sides (small entrance)
  • Dark inside
  • Just big enough for your gecko to fit snugly
  • Smooth edges

Cool Hide

My Pick: Ceramic Cave or Cork Bark

Place this hide on the cool side. Your gecko will use this to cool down when needed.

Humid Hide (CRITICAL for Shedding)

My Pick: DIY Humid Hide or Commercial Humid Hide

This is THE MOST IMPORTANT hide. Leopard geckos need a humid microclimate for proper shedding.

How to make a DIY humid hide:

  1. Use a plastic container with a lid
  2. Cut an entrance hole in the side
  3. Sand the edges smooth
  4. Fill with moist (not wet) sphagnum moss or paper towels
  5. Place on warm or cool side
  6. Mist the substrate inside every 2-3 days to keep it moist

Why humid hides matter:

  • Prevents stuck shed (especially on toes and eyes)
  • Helps with skin hydration
  • Essential during shedding
  • Provides microclimate variety

Stuck shed kills. Stuck shed on toes cuts off circulation and causes toe loss. Stuck eyecaps cause blindness. A humid hide prevents this.

Optional Enrichment

Climbing Décor:

  • Small branches or driftwood (smooth, no splinters)
  • Cork bark pieces
  • Rock formations (stable and secure)

Important: Leopard geckos aren’t climbers like crested geckos. They’re terrestrial. Keep décor low to prevent falls.

Décor Safety Rules:

✅ Safe:

  • Smooth surfaces
  • Stable structures (can’t tip over)
  • Reptile-safe materials
  • Easy to clean

❌ Unsafe:

  • Sharp edges
  • Small objects they can swallow
  • Toxic materials
  • Tall structures (fall risk)

Feeding Accessories

Feeding Dishes

Shallow Ceramic Dish

Use a shallow dish for mealworms or other slow-moving feeders. This prevents them from burrowing into substrate.

My pick: Small ceramic bowl or reptile feeding dish (2-3 inches deep, smooth sides)

Feeding Tongs

My Pick: Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs

Using tongs prevents your gecko from accidentally biting your fingers during feeding. Also useful for enticing picky eaters.

Water Dish

Shallow Dish – Always Available

Leopard geckos need access to fresh water at all times. Use a shallow dish they can’t drown in.

Important:

  • Change water daily
  • Keep dish shallow (1-2 inches deep max)
  • Place on cool side
  • Heavy dish that won’t tip

Feeder Insect Storage

For Mealworms:

  • Store in plastic container with ventilation holes
  • Keep at room temperature (they’ll pupate faster) or refrigerate to slow growth
  • Provide oats or bran for bedding
  • Add carrot or potato for moisture

For Crickets/Roaches:

  • Plastic bin with egg crate for hiding
  • Feed them gut-load food
  • Provide water via sponge or gel
  • Keep at 70-80°F

Health & Care Supplies

Shedding Aid

My Pick: Reptile Shedding Aid Spray

If your gecko has stuck shed despite having a humid hide, use shedding spray to help loosen it.

Never pull shed off—this damages skin.

Normal shedding:

  • Happens every 4-8 weeks (more frequent in juveniles)
  • Skin looks dull/white before shedding
  • They often eat their shed (normal!)
  • Complete shed within 24 hours

Stuck shed problems:

  • Toes (causes toe loss)
  • Tail tip (causes tail tip necrosis)
  • Eyes (eyecaps—causes blindness)

How to help with stuck shed:

  1. Ensure humid hide is properly maintained
  2. Give a 10-minute warm bath (85°F water, 1/2 inch deep)
  3. Use shedding spray if needed
  4. NEVER pull—let it come off naturally

Scale & Weight Monitoring

My Pick: Digital Kitchen Scale

Weigh your gecko monthly to monitor health. Sudden weight loss indicates illness.

Healthy weights:

  • Hatchling: 3-5 grams
  • Juvenile: 15-40 grams
  • Adult female: 45-70 grams
  • Adult male: 60-90 grams

Parasite Treatment

Vet-Prescribed Dewormer Only

Get a fecal test from a reptile vet annually. If parasites are found, your vet will prescribe the appropriate dewormer.

Signs of parasites:

  • Runny or smelly poop
  • Weight loss despite eating
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite

Never use over-the-counter dewormers without vet guidance.

First Aid Kit Essentials:

  • Reptile-safe disinfectant
  • Sterile gauze
  • Shedding aid spray
  • Digital scale
  • Small towel for handling
  • Emergency vet contact info
  • Spare heat mat (in case primary fails)

When to See a Vet Immediately:

  • Not eating for 2+ weeks
  • Lethargy and weakness
  • Discharge from eyes, nose, or mouth
  • Swollen limbs or joints (sign of MBD)
  • Prolapse
  • Stuck eyecap after 48 hours
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Impaction (swollen belly, no poop for week+)

Shopping List by Priority

IMMEDIATE ESSENTIALS (Can’t keep a leopard gecko without these):

  1. Enclosure (20-gallon long minimum for adults)
  2. Under-tank heat mat
  3. Thermostat for heat mat (NON-NEGOTIABLE)
  4. Temperature gun
  5. Substrate (tile or paper towels)
  6. Three hides (warm, cool, humid)
  7. Sphagnum moss (for humid hide)
  8. Water dish
  9. Food dish
  10. Live insects (mealworms, dubia roaches, or crickets)
  11. Calcium with D3
  12. Multivitamin

Estimated cost for complete setup: $200-400

WEEK 1 ADDITIONS:

  1. Digital thermometer with probe
  2. Feeding tongs
  3. Variety of feeder insects
  4. Timer for lights (if using overhead light)
  5. Digital scale

NICE TO HAVE:

  1. Additional hides or décor
  2. Shedding aid spray
  3. Low-wattage overhead heat bulb (optional)
  4. Low-output UVB (2.0-5.0, optional)
  5. Backup heat mat

Common Leopard Gecko Myths (Debunked)

Myth: Leopard geckos can live on sand
❌ FALSE. Sand causes impaction and is the #1 killer of leopard geckos. Use tile or paper towels.

Myth: They don’t need a heat source
❌ FALSE. They need belly heat (under-tank heater) to digest food. Without it, they become impacted.

Myth: You don’t need a thermostat with heat mats
❌ FALSE. Heat mats can reach 120°F+ and burn your gecko. A thermostat is REQUIRED.

Myth: They can eat vegetables or fruit
❌ FALSE. Leopard geckos are 100% insectivores. They can’t digest plant matter.

Myth: They don’t need supplements
❌ FALSE. They need calcium with D3 at every feeding to prevent metabolic bone disease.

Myth: One hide is enough
❌ FALSE. They need minimum three hides: warm, cool, and humid. Otherwise they can’t thermoregulate properly.

Myth: Red lights are fine for nighttime heat
❌ FALSE. Red lights disrupt their photoperiod. Use ceramic heat emitter if night heat is needed (usually isn’t).

Maintenance Schedule

Daily:

  • Check temperatures (hot spot and ambient)
  • Feed insects (frequency depends on age)
  • Change water
  • Spot-clean poop
  • Visual health check

Every 2-3 Days:

  • Mist humid hide to keep moist
  • Replace humid hide substrate if dirty

Weekly:

  • Wipe down tile/glass
  • Disinfect food and water dishes
  • Replace paper towels (if using)

Monthly:

  • Deep clean entire enclosure
  • Sanitize all hides and décor
  • Weigh your gecko
  • Check heat mat and thermostat function

Every 6-12 Months:

  • Replace UVB bulb (if using—every 6-12 months depending on brand)
  • Annual vet checkup with fecal test
  • Check heat mat for wear/damage

Final Thoughts

Leopard geckos are one of the easiest reptiles to keep—IF you get the basics right. The upfront cost is reasonable ($200-400), and monthly costs are minimal (mainly insects and electricity).

The most important things:
✓ Under-tank heat with thermostat (prevents burns, ensures digestion)
✓ Three hides including humid hide (prevents stuck shed)
✓ Safe substrate like tile (prevents impaction)
✓ Calcium + D3 supplementation (prevents MBD)
✓ Temperature monitoring (prevents health issues)

Get these right and your leopard gecko will thrive for 15-20+ years.