Bearded Dragon Owner Essentials: Complete Care & Shopping Guide

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Everything you need to keep your bearded dragon healthy, happy, and thriving. I’ve researched and vetted each product on this list to ensure they meet the specific needs of bearded dragons at every life stage.

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Enclosures & Tanks

My Top Pick: Reptile Habitats 4x2x2 PVC Enclosure

This is hands-down the best enclosure for adult bearded dragons. PVC holds heat and humidity better than glass, has front-opening doors for easy access, and the 4x2x2 size gives your dragon plenty of space to roam.

Why I recommend it:

  • Perfect size for adult bearded dragons (120 gallons)
  • Front-opening doors (less stressful than top-opening)
  • Excellent heat retention
  • Easy to clean and maintain
  • Lightweight yet durable

Minimum Size Requirements:

  • Baby bearded dragons (0-6 months): 20-40 gallon tank
  • Juvenile bearded dragons (6-12 months): 40-75 gallon tank
  • Adult bearded dragons (12+ months): 75-120 gallon minimum (4x2x2 feet recommended)

Budget Option: REPTI ZOO Full Glass 35 Gallon Reptile Tank

If you’re on a budget or have a juvenile dragon, this front-opening glass terrarium is a solid choice. The dual doors make access easy and it includes a screen top for proper ventilation.

Important Note: Never use aquariums with top-only access. Bearded dragons perceive hands coming from above as predators. Front-opening enclosures reduce stress significantly.

DIY Option Considerations:

If you’re handy, you can build a custom enclosure using melamine or PVC boards. Just ensure:

  • Proper ventilation (screen top or vents)
  • No toxic materials or finishes
  • Secure doors that lock
  • Adequate space for temperature gradient

Heating & Lighting

Bearded dragons are desert reptiles that require specific heating and UVB lighting to stay healthy. This is NOT optional—without proper lighting, your dragon will develop metabolic bone disease and die.

UVB Lighting (CRITICAL)

My Top Pick: Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit 12% (24″ or 34″)

This is the gold standard for bearded dragon UVB. The 12% UVB output is perfect for desert species, and the T5 bulb is much more powerful and longer-lasting than compact bulbs.

Why Arcadia is worth it:

  • Provides proper UVB spectrum (290-320nm)
  • Lasts 12+ months (vs 6 months for other brands)
  • Even UVB distribution across the enclosure
  • Comes with reflector for maximum output

Budget Alternative: Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 T5 HO

If Arcadia is out of budget, the Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 T5 HO is a solid second choice. Replace it every 6-8 months as UVB output degrades.

CRITICAL UVB Rules:

  • Use T5 HO bulbs, NOT compact/coil bulbs (compacts don’t provide adequate UVB)
  • Mount UVB inside the enclosure, not over screen (screen blocks 50% of UVB)
  • Position UVB bulb 10-12 inches from basking spot
  • Replace every 6-12 months depending on brand
  • Never use “combo” heat/UVB bulbs—they don’t provide sufficient UVB

Basking Heat Lamp

My Top Pick: Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp (100-150W)

A simple, reliable halogen basking bulb. The focused beam creates a proper basking spot without overheating the entire tank.

Basking Temperature Requirements:

  • Baby bearded dragons: 105-110°F
  • Juvenile bearded dragons: 100-105°F
  • Adult bearded dragons: 95-105°F

Alternative: Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp

Lasts longer than standard basking bulbs and provides more natural heat spectrum.

What NOT to Use:

  • Red/blue/purple “night” bulbs (disrupt sleep cycle)
  • Heat rocks (cause burns)
  • Colored bulbs (mess with day/night cycle)

Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) – For Night Heat

My Pick: Fluker’s Ceramic Heat Emitter (100-150W)

If your house drops below 65°F at night, you’ll need a ceramic heat emitter to maintain ambient temperatures without light.

When you need a CHE:

  • Room temperature drops below 65°F at night
  • Winter months in cold climates
  • Keeps ambient tank temp at 70-75°F overnight

Note: Most people don’t need nighttime heating unless it gets very cold. Bearded dragons can handle nighttime temps down to 65°F.

Heat Lamp Fixtures & Domes

My Pick: Fluker’s Clamp Lamp with Ceramic Socket

Get a fixture that can handle high-wattage bulbs (150W+). Ceramic sockets prevent melting. You’ll need at least two fixtures—one for UVB and one for basking heat.

Safety Tips:

  • Use domed fixtures with ceramic sockets
  • Never use plastic fixtures (fire hazard)
  • Secure fixtures so they can’t fall into the tank
  • Keep bulbs away from flammable materials

Thermometers & Hygrometers

You can’t guess temperatures—you need to measure them accurately. This is non-negotiable.

My Top Pick: Zoo Med ReptiTemp Digital Infrared Thermometer

This is a temp gun that lets you measure surface temperatures anywhere in the tank instantly. Essential for checking basking spot temps.

Why you need a temp gun:

  • Measures exact basking spot temperature
  • Check multiple spots in the tank
  • Instant readings
  • Lasts forever

For Ambient Temps: Digital Thermometer with Probe

Place the probe on the cool side to monitor ambient temperatures. I like simple digital thermometers with external probes.

Temperature Gradient Requirements:

Your tank needs a temperature gradient:

  • Basking spot: 95-110°F (depending on age)
  • Warm side ambient: 85-90°F
  • Cool side ambient: 75-80°F
  • Nighttime: 65-75°F

Humidity Monitoring:

Bearded dragons need LOW humidity (30-40%). Get a simple digital hygrometer to monitor.

What NOT to Use:

  • Stick-on dial thermometers (wildly inaccurate)
  • Thermometers placed on glass (measure glass temp, not air temp)

Substrate & Flooring

This is one of the most debated topics in bearded dragon care. Here’s what actually works.

My Top Pick for Adults: Tile or Slate

Ceramic tile, slate, or flagstone is the best substrate for bearded dragons. It’s safe, easy to clean, holds heat well, and helps file down nails naturally.

Why tile is best:

  • Zero impaction risk
  • Easy to clean and disinfect
  • Holds heat from basking lamp
  • Natural nail filing
  • Looks great
  • Lasts forever

How to use tile:

  • Measure your tank dimensions
  • Buy unglazed ceramic tile or slate from hardware store (cheap!)
  • Cut to fit (or have store cut it)
  • No adhesive needed—just place it in the tank
  • Wipe down with reptile-safe cleaner weekly

Budget Option: Textured Shelf Liner or Reptile Carpet

If tile isn’t an option, use textured shelf liner (non-adhesive) or reptile carpet. These are safe and easy to clean.

For Babies: Paper Towels

For bearded dragons under 6 months old, use paper towels. They’re safe, easy to replace, and let you monitor poop easily.

AVOID THESE SUBSTRATES:

  • ❌ Sand (causes impaction, especially in babies)
  • ❌ Calci-sand (marketed as safe but still causes impaction)
  • ❌ Wood chips/shavings (splinters, impaction risk)
  • ❌ Walnut shell (sharp, impaction risk)
  • ❌ Loose substrates for babies (impaction risk)

Advanced Option: Bioactive Substrate

Experienced keepers can use bioactive substrates with cleanup crews (isopods, springtails). This requires significant research and is NOT recommended for beginners.

Food & Nutrition

Bearded dragons are omnivores with dietary needs that change as they age. Getting this right is critical for healthy growth.

Live Feeders (Insects)

Staple Insects (Feed Regularly):

Dubia Roaches – Best Overall Feeder

These are the gold standard for bearded dragon nutrition. High protein, easy to digest, don’t smell, can’t climb glass, and live for months.

Where to buy: Order from reputable breeders online (Rainbow Mealworms, Dubia Roaches, etc.)

Crickets – Budget-Friendly Alternative

Cheap and readily available, but they smell, die quickly, and are noisy. Still a decent staple if you can’t get roaches.

Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Nutrigrubs)

High in calcium, easy to digest. Great supplemental feeder.

Supplemental Feeders (Variety/Treats):

  • Silkworms (high moisture, great for picky eaters)
  • Hornworms (hydrating treat, don’t overfeed—high in water)
  • Superworms (high fat, feed sparingly)
  • Mealworms (okay for adults, too much chitin for babies)
  • Waxworms (fatty treat only, like candy)

NEVER Feed:

  • Wild-caught insects (pesticide risk)
  • Lightning bugs/fireflies (toxic—will kill your dragon)
  • Insects from bait shops (may carry parasites)
  • Anything that glows

Feeding Schedule for Insects:

  • Babies (0-6 months): 80% insects, 20% veggies – Feed 3-5 times daily
  • Juveniles (6-12 months): 50% insects, 50% veggies – Feed 2-3 times daily
  • Adults (12+ months): 20% insects, 80% veggies – Feed insects 3-4 times per week

Insect Size Rule: Never feed insects larger than the space between your dragon’s eyes.

Vegetables & Greens

Daily Staple Greens (Feed Every Day):

  • Collard greens
  • Mustard greens
  • Turnip greens
  • Dandelion greens
  • Endive
  • Escarole
  • Arugula
  • Watercress

Occasional Veggies (Few Times Per Week):

  • Butternut squash
  • Acorn squash
  • Yellow squash
  • Bell peppers (red, orange, yellow)
  • Green beans
  • Snap peas
  • Okra
  • Parsnips

Fruits (Treats Only – 5% of Diet):

  • Strawberries
  • Blueberries
  • Mango
  • Papaya
  • Melon
  • Figs

NEVER Feed:

  • ❌ Spinach (binds calcium)
  • ❌ Lettuce (no nutritional value)
  • ❌ Rhubarb (toxic)
  • ❌ Avocado (toxic)
  • ❌ Citrus fruits (too acidic)

How to Prepare Veggies:

  • Chop into small pieces (smaller than the space between eyes)
  • Mix greens and veggies together
  • Dust with calcium powder
  • Remove uneaten food after 2 hours

Supplements & Vitamins

Even with perfect diet, bearded dragons need supplementation to prevent metabolic bone disease and other deficiencies.

My Supplement Schedule:

Calcium Powder (WITHOUT D3)

My Pick: Rep-Cal Calcium Powder (No D3)

Use this to dust insects daily for babies/juveniles, and 4-5 times weekly for adults.

Why calcium matters:

  • Prevents metabolic bone disease (MBD)
  • Essential for bone growth
  • Critical for babies and gravid females

Calcium with D3

My Pick: Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3

Use this 2-3 times per week for all ages. D3 helps absorb calcium, but too much can be toxic.

Multivitamin

My Pick: Herptivite Multivitamin

Use once per week for all ages. Provides vitamin A, E, and other essential nutrients.

Complete Supplementation Schedule:

For Babies & Juveniles:

  • Calcium (no D3): Daily
  • Calcium with D3: 3 times per week
  • Multivitamin: Once per week

For Adults:

  • Calcium (no D3): 4-5 times per week
  • Calcium with D3: 2 times per week
  • Multivitamin: Once per week

How to Dust Insects:

  1. Put insects in a plastic bag or container
  2. Add a pinch of supplement powder
  3. Shake gently to coat
  4. Feed immediately

Pro Tip: Dust greens too! Sprinkle a tiny bit of calcium powder on salads.

Décor & Climbing Structures

Bearded dragons are semi-arboreal, meaning they love to climb and bask on elevated surfaces.

Basking Platform

My Top Pick: Zoo Med Reptile Hammock or Natural Branch

Create an elevated basking spot 6-12 inches below the basking bulb. You can use:

  • Natural branches (grapewood, mopani wood)
  • Reptile hammocks
  • Cork bark platforms
  • Flat rocks stacked securely

Important: The basking platform should be elevated so your dragon can get closer to the heat and UVB bulbs.

Climbing Branches

My Pick: Natural Driftwood or Grapewood

Add multiple branches at different heights. This enriches the environment and gives your dragon exercise.

Where to get branches:

  • Pet stores (sanitized and safe)
  • Collect from outdoors (must bake at 200°F for 2 hours to sanitize)
  • Online reptile suppliers

Hides

My Pick: Exo Terra Reptile Cave or Half Log

Provide at least one hide on the cool side where your dragon can retreat and feel secure.

What makes a good hide:

  • Sturdy and won’t collapse
  • Smooth edges (no sharp points)
  • Large enough for your dragon to fit comfortably
  • Easy to clean

Decor Safety Rules:

✅ Safe:

  • Natural wood (sanitized)
  • Smooth rocks and slate
  • Reptile-specific décor
  • Artificial plants (silk or plastic, secured)

❌ Unsafe:

  • Sharp edges or points
  • Small decorations they can swallow
  • Toxic materials
  • Unstable structures that can fall

Feeding Accessories

Food Dishes

For Veggies: Shallow Ceramic Bowl

Use a heavy, shallow ceramic bowl that won’t tip over. This keeps greens contained and makes it easy for your dragon to eat.

My pick: Simple terracotta saucer or ceramic pet bowl (3-4 inches deep)

Insect Feeding Tongs

My Pick: Zoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs

Using tongs prevents your dragon from accidentally biting your fingers during feeding. It also lets you control feeder placement.

Water Dish

Shallow Dish Only

Bearded dragons don’t drink much water (they get most hydration from food), but provide a shallow dish on the cool side.

Important: Change water daily and keep the dish shallow to prevent drowning risk.

Better Hydration Method: Mist greens lightly or give a 10-minute bath 2-3 times per week.

Feeder Insect Storage

For Roaches/Crickets: Plastic bin with egg crate

Keep live feeders in a well-ventilated plastic bin with egg crate for hiding. Feed them quality gut-load food (vegetables, commercial gut-load).

What is gut-loading? Feeding nutritious food to your insects 24 hours before feeding them to your dragon. The nutrition passes through to your pet.

Good gut-load foods:

  • Collard greens
  • Carrots
  • Sweet potato
  • Squash
  • Commercial gut-load powder

Health & Care Supplies

Bathing & Hydration

Bathing Schedule:

Give your bearded dragon a 10-15 minute bath in shallow lukewarm water 2-3 times per week.

Bathing benefits:

  • Helps with hydration
  • Aids in shedding
  • Stimulates bowel movements
  • Keeps skin healthy

How to bathe:

  1. Fill a plastic bin or sink with 1-2 inches of lukewarm water (90-95°F)
  2. Let your dragon soak for 10-15 minutes
  3. Supervise the entire time
  4. Gently pour water over their back (avoid getting water in nose/ears)
  5. Pat dry with a towel before returning to tank

Shedding Aid

My Pick: Zoo Med Repti Shedding Aid

Spray on stuck shed to help loosen it. Never pull shed off—this can damage skin.

Normal shedding:

  • Happens in patches, not all at once (unlike snakes)
  • More frequent in babies/juveniles
  • Skin looks dull before a shed
  • May be irritable during shedding

Stuck shed problems:

  • Toes and tail tips are most vulnerable
  • Can cut off circulation if not removed
  • Increase baths during shedding
  • Use shedding spray for stubborn areas

Nail Trimming

My Pick: Small Pet Nail Clippers

Bearded dragon nails grow continuously and need occasional trimming if tile substrate doesn’t file them down enough.

How to trim:

  1. Hold dragon gently but firmly
  2. Trim just the sharp tip (avoid the quick—the pink part inside)
  3. If you cut the quick, use styptic powder to stop bleeding
  4. Do one nail at a time if your dragon is stressed

Alternative: Tile substrate naturally files nails down over time.

Parasite Treatment

My Pick: Reptile-Safe Dewormer (Vet Prescribed)

Get a fecal test from a reptile vet annually. If parasites are found, your vet will prescribe the appropriate dewormer.

Signs of parasites:

  • Runny or smelly poop
  • Weight loss despite eating
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite

Never use over-the-counter dewormers without vet guidance.

Wound Care

Betadine Solution (Povidone-Iodine)

For minor cuts or abrasions, dilute Betadine to a weak tea color and clean the wound. See a vet for anything serious.

First Aid Kit Essentials:

  • Betadine solution
  • Sterile gauze
  • Styptic powder (for nail bleeding)
  • Digital thermometer (for checking body temp if sick)
  • Shedding aid spray
  • Reptile-safe disinfectant (F10 or chlorhexidine)
  • Small towel for restraint
  • Emergency vet contact info

When to See a Vet Immediately:

  • Not eating for 2+ weeks
  • Lethargy and weakness
  • Discharge from eyes, nose, or mouth
  • Swollen limbs or joints (sign of MBD)
  • Paralysis or seizures
  • Prolapse
  • Difficulty breathing

Shopping List by Priority

IMMEDIATE ESSENTIALS (Can’t keep a bearded dragon without these):

  1. Enclosure (minimum 40 gallon for juveniles, 120 gallon for adults)
  2. UVB light (T5 HO, 10.0-12% UVB)
  3. Basking bulb (100-150W)
  4. Lamp fixtures (2 minimum—one for UVB, one for heat)
  5. Thermometer (temp gun + ambient thermometer)
  6. Substrate (tile, paper towels, or reptile carpet)
  7. Basking platform (branch or hammock)
  8. Hide (for cool side)
  9. Food dishes (for veggies and water)
  10. Live insects (dubia roaches or crickets)
  11. Fresh greens (collard, mustard, turnip greens)
  12. Calcium powder (without D3)
  13. Calcium with D3
  14. Multivitamin

Estimated cost for complete setup: $400-700 depending on enclosure choice

WEEK 1 ADDITIONS:

  1. Ceramic heat emitter (if nights are cold)
  2. Additional climbing branches
  3. Feeding tongs
  4. Variety of feeder insects
  5. Timer for lights

NICE TO HAVE:

  1. Digital hygrometer
  2. Reptile hammock
  3. Shedding aid spray
  4. Additional hides or décor
  5. Backup bulbs (UVB and basking)

Common Bearded Dragon Myths (Debunked)

Myth: Bearded dragons only need heat, not UVB
❌ FALSE. UVB is absolutely essential. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease and die. It’s non-negotiable.

Myth: Sand is a natural substrate so it’s safe
❌ FALSE. Wild bearded dragons live on hard-packed clay and rock, not loose sand. Loose sand causes impaction in captivity.

Myth: They can eat iceberg lettuce
❌ FALSE. Lettuce has zero nutritional value and fills them up without providing nutrients. Stick to nutrient-dense greens.

Myth: Red lights are okay for nighttime heating
❌ FALSE. Red/blue/purple lights disrupt their sleep cycle. Use a ceramic heat emitter if nighttime heat is needed.

Myth: Compact UVB bulbs work fine
❌ FALSE. Compact/coil UVB bulbs don’t provide adequate UVB coverage. Always use T5 HO tube bulbs.

Myth: They don’t need supplements if they get UVB
❌ FALSE. Even with perfect UVB, they need calcium and vitamin supplementation.

Myth: A 20-gallon tank is fine for adults
❌ FALSE. Adults need MINIMUM 75 gallons, ideally 120 gallons (4x2x2 feet).

Maintenance Schedule

Daily:

  • Check temperatures (basking spot and ambient)
  • Provide fresh vegetables
  • Remove uneaten food after 2 hours
  • Feed insects (frequency depends on age)
  • Change water
  • Spot-clean poop

Weekly:

  • Full substrate cleaning (if using reptile carpet/shelf liner)
  • Disinfect food dishes
  • Wipe down glass/walls
  • Give bath 2-3 times

Monthly:

  • Deep clean entire enclosure
  • Sanitize all décor
  • Check UVB bulb output (if you have a Solarmeter)
  • Trim nails if needed

Every 6-12 Months:

  • Replace UVB bulb (6 months for most brands, 12 for Arcadia)
  • Annual vet checkup with fecal test
  • Replace worn substrate

Final Thoughts

Bearded dragons make amazing pets, but they’re NOT low-maintenance. The upfront cost for proper equipment is significant ($400-700), but once you’re set up, monthly costs are minimal (mainly food and electricity).

The most important things:
✓ Proper-sized enclosure (4x2x2 for adults)
✓ Quality UVB lighting (T5 HO, replaced regularly)
✓ Correct temperatures (basking spot + gradient)
✓ Calcium supplementation (prevents MBD)
✓ Varied diet (appropriate for age)

Get these right and your bearded dragon will thrive for 10-15+ years.